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Over the years, Paul Hartnett has contributed to publications such as i-D, Dazed & Confused, The Sunday Times Magazine, The Independent Magazine, Observer Magazine, Time Out, Têtu and China's Vision.
Attuned to consumer mindsets, Hartnett's extensive body of work has a sharp focus upon the identification and assessment of trends, stylestalking the 'directional'.
'Visually, I graze across cultures and different industry sectors, in search of individuals within heterophyllous groups that contain ethnically and socially diverse networks. My intention is to track originators, innovators and early adopters of trends. Ever since 1976, I've specialised in social trawling, with the focus being upon different style tribes within youth culture. Since the age of eighteen, I've detected and tracked changes in the way consumers dress and live. I document the 'braile', the style bumps that protrude within the fashion and clubland style-fixated landscapes.'
Hartnett has recently given a number of talks upon street-style photography and fashion forecasting at London's Royal College of Art, London College of Fashion, University of Wales (Newport), Westminster, Hull, UCA Epsom, Arts University College Bournemouth, Barking & Dagenham College, ICA, Tate Britain and Kong Gallery in Shanghai. Hartnett regularly produces visuals for Worth Global Style Network (WGSN) on a contracted freelance contributor basis and his archive is represented by Jon Swinstead at PYMCA.
'My photographic archive spans from 1976 to now. As the VINTAGE section of this site also reflects, I've collected vintage photographs for many years, images that contain a strong Fashion History and Social History content, dating from 1850 to 1950. These visuals, documented in a broad range of photographic processes, balance my own photographic work, which continues the street-style story that travelling tintypists documented with such vigour.'
Born to Irish parents in West London, 1958, Hartnett grew up in a residential home for the elderly which his mother owned. Educated by Benedictine monks at a controversially notorious all-boys Catholic school in Ealing, Hartnett first began taking photographs at the age of nine when he won '...a really nasty plastic camera' as a bingo prize in the British holiday resort of Clacton. His first subjects were weary donkeys on the beach and starfish trapped in shallow pools.
Hartnett took his first nightclub photograph of Soo Catwoman at Bang Disco in October 1976, using a Kodak Instamatic camera. Armed with a Nikon he bought at a flea market, he then began photographing fans of the Sex Pistols in Chelsea's King's Road and Portobello Market, then Steve Strange's New Romantics in and around London's Kensington Market and Covent Garden, linking with the likes of 'gender benders' Boy George and Marilyn, plus design icons such as Judy Blame, John Galliano and Leigh Bowery.
Hartnett is the man responsible for closing Leigh Bowery's 80s club Taboo with a bang, having put together an explosive feature for You magazine (Mail On Sunday), in which he candidly mentioned the drug habits of an assortment of high and low life ambulance chasers within Taboo at that time.
In 1995, Hartnett ran the world's first club for 'drag kings', Naïve, at Maximus in Leicester Square, home of Taboo. At the venue created as a playground for female-to-male transvestites and transsexuals, there was one strict rule: no photographers. Such a strategy allowed Hartnett absolute exclusivity.
'Loitering with intent at events, subjects I've recently enjoyed documenting include the bonehead and trad' skin'ead geezers attending Blackpool's Rebellion Festival, the annual 60s event named Scorcher in Birmingham, a select few at London's Graduate Fashion Week, Frieze Art Fair / London Art Week, Free Range, Wayne Hemingway's annual Vintage event, plus those in the know at London Fashion Week… always in search of raw style, real style.'
Paul Hartnett lives alone in a converted brewery on a hill in Haworth, West Yorkshire, England.
A wide range of people have acquired the portrait work of Paul Hartnett over the years. Such people include exhibitions curator Norman Rosenthal; film director John Maybury; acclaimed fashion journalist and lecturer James Anderson; opera director and curator Robert Chevara; club promoter Wayne Shires; performance artist David Hoyle; B-Rude fashion designer and film maker Mike Nichols; Boy George; Sibling and Jaeger fashion designer Joe Bates; portrait photographer John McKay; the fetish photographer and 'freak show' expert known singularly as Ashley; vintage toy dealer Julian Kalinowski (aka Julian de Sade); make-up artist and teacher Jaime Anda; textile production expert and photographic curator Anthony Duschell; club kidz such as Black Beauty (John Halliday) and Cloakroom Tim.
Limited edition non-digital b/w hand print enquiries may be made directly to Paul Hartnett via info@paulhartnett.com. A selection of limited edition digital prints are also available, upon written request. A recently exhibited limited edition screenprint of a Leigh Bowery piece is available from PYMCA, jon@pymca.com.
2012 March > June
The Hartnett Archive
Solo show
Viewing by appointment only
Haworth, West Yorkshire
2011 October > God knows when
Oi! YEAH YOU!
Solo show
British Boot Company, 5 Kentish Town Road, London NW1
2011 February > September
Youth Club
Youth Club Gallery, Carnaby Street, London
2010 September > October
Streetstyle
Group show
The Book Club, Leonard Street, London EC2
2010 September > October
Noughtie Nightlife
Group show
Rich Mix, Bethnal Green Road, London E2
2009 April > May
Unordinary People
Group show
Royal Albert Hall, Kensington Gore, London
2008 August > January
Fashion v Sport
Group show
Victoria & Albert Museum, South Kensington, London
2008 April > May
All That Glitters
Solo show
Sosho, Tabernacle Street, London
2008 February > March
Hartnett '76 > NOW
Solo show
Vibe, Brick Lane, London
2007
Show Offs
Group show
Curated by Charles Williams of Another Late Night
Microzine, Bold Street, Liverpool
2007
Hair
Group show
PYMCA Gallery, Clerkenwell Road, London
2007
This Was England
Group show
National Film Institute, Southbank, London
2007
Fear of a Young Planet
Group show
Kong Gallery, Shanghai
2005
Faces
Group show
PYMCA Gallery, Clerkenwell Road, London
2004
A Day In The Life Of The City
Group show
Urbis, Manchester
2004
Butterflies and Moths
Solo show
LGF, Oxford Road, Manchester
2003
Bohemia
Talk and slide show on Bohemia / Street & Club culture
With Michael Bracewell and Philip Hoare
Tate Britain, London
2002
The Legend of Leigh Bowery
Talk and slide show on Leigh Bowery
With Michael Bracewell, Matt Lucas and Sue Tilley
Tate Britain, London
2001
Pride
Group show
Institute of Contemporary Arts (ICA), The Mall, London
2000
Midnight's Children
Solo show
Freedom Gallery, Wardour Street, London
1999
Street and Club Portraits
Solo show
Ego, Soho, London
1996
Shooting Up
Solo show
Levi's Gallery, Regent Street, London
1995
Tribute to Leigh Bowery
Group show curated by Tanya Bonakdar
Tanya Bonakdar Gallery, Chelsea, NYC
1995
Leigh Bowery Memorial
Group show, curated by Johnnie Shand Kydd
The Fine Arts Society, New Bond Street, London